Saddle Set-Up

Saddle set-up is crucial for a good road-bike fit. However, it is not just about setting the height. There are 4 main adjustments that work together and understanding the nuances of each adjustment is essential for fine-tuning your position. The saddle position is important as it dictates leg power and ensures a balance between performance and comfort.

Note: A saddle is always designed to be sat on with the pelvic bones on the widest part of the saddle and that the centreline of the saddle (running from front to back) is inline with the top-tube.

a. Saddle Height

Saddle height is one of the most critical adjustments for efficient pedaling and injury prevention. If your saddle is too high, you risk overextending your legs, which can strain your knees and hips. Conversely, a saddle that’s too low can reduce power output and cause discomfort.

How to Adjust:

• Loosen the seat post clamp (where seat post meets frame)
  
• Recommended to mark height of the seat post (or measure and record) before adjusting, as this will help you return it to the right position if needed.
  
• Re-tighten to the correct torque (important for carbon seat posts / frames)
  Setting Saddle Height

Saddle Height Starting Point

There are several ways to give you a good starting point for your saddle height. You should then experiment and fine-tune to get the best fit for you (remembering that this will likely change as your ability changes).

1. Hip Method: Stand next to your bike and have the top of the saddle inline with your hip bone.
2. Heels Method: Sit on the saddle with somebody holding you up and your heels on the pedals. Pedal backward; your legs should fully extend at the lowest point without rocking your hips.
   
3. LeMond Method: Multiply your inseam length by 0.883 to get a starting saddle height measurement (from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle)
4. Creep Up Method: A preferred method for many professional bike-fitters as it gives the cyclist a chance to experience lower saddle heights and think about their pedal stroke. Start with saddle height purposefully too low and creep up, raising in 5mm increments. You should be aiming for smooth pedalling and when you get to a height where your stroke starts to feels choppy, you are too high, and you should go back down 5mm.

Practical Tip: Use a level surface and set other saddle adjustments to neutral (if preferences unknown) when finding a starting point.

Saddle Height Fine-Tuning

After finding a starting height, it then needs to be fine-tuned over time and testing, or when other aspects of your set-up change. You can keep track of your saddle height (or drop to handlebar), with the knowledge that it should change slightly as you perform better.

Note: Many cyclists have their saddle too high for years and get used to it. This can make it difficult to fine-tune on feel. 

A good pedal stroke should feel smooth. Your bum should be stable and consistent on saddle when pedalling - any rocking from side to side is a clear sign of incorrect height. There should also be no large changes to ankle angle throughout pedal stroke, and the knee should stay in a mid angle range (no completely straight legs or completely squashed up legs). Remember to consider both legs when assessing feel!

1. Cycle: There is no better test than to go for a cycle. Focus on how your legs feel, if they are getting tired or struggling to perform, and if there is any twisting in the stroke. These are indicators of that further adjustment is needed. You should be aiming for smooth pedalling and be able to comfortably cycle with your hands in various positions - around the levers as well as in the drops.
2. Dynamic Assessment: Use an app or online service to analyse your angles as you cycle on an indoor training. Look for a knee angle suitable for style and ability; refer to previous chapter for specific angles for different styles.

Note: Ankle angle and foot size are two parameters that also affect optimum saddle height (and knee angle). People with dorsiflexion (pointing toes up on bottom of stroke) might require slightly lower saddle (and be at larger end of knee angle range) and people with plantar-flexion (pointing toes down on bottom of stroke) might require slightly higher saddles (and be at smaller end of knee angle range).

b. Saddle Fore-Aft Position

The saddle fore-aft position (aka Setback) refers to how far forward or backward your saddle is positioned on the seat rails. This adjustment affects reach, as well as pedaling efficiency, weight distribution, and overall comfort. It plays a key role in preventing knee pain and ensuring proper alignment over the pedals.

How to Adjust

• Loosen the saddle clamp bolts (on the head of the seat post)
  
• Slide the saddle forward or backward along the rails
  
• Re-tighten to the correct torque (important for carbon seat posts / saddle rails)

Setting Saddle Fore-Aft

The saddle fore-aft position (aka Setback) is important to ensure efficient power. Different styles and abilities might call for slightly different set-ups, but the physics of having your knees about the pedals when stroke is in 3 o'clock position is proven.

Note: Crank-arm length plays a very important  role in pedalling efficiency and cyclists with short or long legs should consider correcting this before setting saddle set-back.

1. Knee Over Pedal Spindle (KOPS) Method: Sit on the bike with the cranks horizontal (3 o’clock & 9 o’clock position). Drop a plumb line (or use a laser measure) from your front knee (patella)—it should align with the pedal spindle. If the line falls in front of the spindle, move the saddle back; if it’s behind, move it forward.
2. Cycle: Test at a moderate intensity—if you feel too much weight on your hands, your saddle might be too far forward. If your pedalling feels inefficient or your hips rock excessively, it may be too far back. Remember to test with hands in different positions.

Practical Tip: Fore-aft adjustment has a large effect from small adjustments. Small increments (2-3mm at a time) are recommended to fine-tune the perfect position. Many rails have markers so you can keep track of the position.

Note: Some people try to adjust saddle setback to counter an incorrect reach, but this affects pedalling efficiency. A more sensible change to alter reach is to look for a different length stem, change the handlebar set-up, or change the handlebar to one with different geometry.

c. Saddle Tilt

The tilt of your saddle impacts your weight distribution and comfort. While the default setting is usually level, slight adjustments can accommodate specific preferences and anatomical needs. It is the middle and nose of the saddle that we are looking at, ignoring any curves at the back.

Note: Ergonomic "waved" saddles often require specific angles and you should consult manufacturers instructions before setting these up.

How to Adjust:

• Loosen the saddle clamp bolts (on the head of the seat post)
• The clamp on top of the seat post usually sits flat on seat post for a level tilt
  
• Re-arrange the clamp parts or tilt the clamp around bolt to desired tilt.
• Re-tighten to the correct torque (important for carbon seat posts / saddle rails)
  

Saddle Tilt Options

• Level: Having the saddle perfectly horizontal is recommended for the vast majority of cyclists as ensures good power transfer and most saddles are designed for level tilt.
  
• Nose Down: A slight downward tilt (up to 1°) is sometimes used by aggressive riders to aid aerodynamic positions, but avoid excessive tilt to prevent sliding. Excessive tilt may also create unusual pressure points that the saddle and the chamois are not designed to relieve.
  
• Nose Up: Rarely used but may benefit riders who experience discomfort when seated upright. Again maximum of (up to 1°).
  

Practical Tip: Many saddles have markers to show tilt, but using the spirit level on your phone to check actual angle is best - ignoring any curve at the back of saddle.

d. Saddle Angle

The saddle angle refers to height difference between left and right (whereas tilt refers to height difference of front and back). It affects pelvic tilt as well as interaction with your spine and sit bones. This can be something to adjust if you have a shorter leg, but not the first thing, (which should be cleat shims.)

Note: Road-bike saddles are designed to have their centre line parallel with tope tube and we do not recommend twisting a saddle away from this.

How to Adjust:

• Loosen the saddle clamp bolts (usually on the seat post head)
• The clamp ontop of the seat post usually has two parts with align for level angle
• Re-tighten to the correct torque (important for carbon seat posts / saddle rails)
  

Finding the Right Angle

• Neutral Position: Most riders benefit from a neutral position where the saddle supports the pelvis evenly, and this is how saddles are designed to be used.
• Testing Variations: Experiment with 0.5° adjustments and observe how your hips and lower back feel during a ride.

Practical Tip: A professional bike fit can use pressure-mapping tools to determine the ideal angle for your anatomy.

e. Saddle Choice

The right saddle is key to road-bike comfort, and many cyclists experiment with different options. We cover saddle selection in detail in the Upgrading your Road-Bike chapter, but here are key factors to consider.

Note: Padded shorts (with chamois) are a game-changer to uninitiated cyclists and should be always be an early investment – especially before trying out different saddles!

Saddle Width

Measure your sit bones for the best fit (see our Measuring your Body-Parts post).

• Narrow (130-140mm): For 110-120mm sit bones.
  
• Medium (140-150mm): For 120-130mm sit bones.
  
• Wide (150-160mm): For 130-140mm sit bones.
  

Practical Tip: Pressure on hips/sit bones? Too narrow. Discomfort in the center? Too wide.

Saddle Length

All saddles have been gettting progresssively shorter over the last decades, encouraging riders to sit on the wider back of saddle more, where support is given.

• Long (240-270mm): Good for endurance/climbing, allowing movement.
  
• Medium (270-290mm): A balance of comfort and adjustability.
  
• Short (290-310mm): Ideal for aggressive/time trials with a fixed position.
  

Practical Tip: Snub saddles are a design of short saddles that end abruptly and popular, especially with people who experience thigh-rubbing or chaffing.

Padding

This is a big topic and difficult to summarise concisely, but…

• Minimal (Bare/Leather): Lightweight, firm feel, no intereference for power transfer.
  
• Moderate (EVA Foam/Thin Gel): Good balance for performance and comfort.
  
• Maximal (Memory Foam/Gel): Best for casual riders but may cause friction.
  

Practical Tip: More padding isn’t always better—too much can cause chafing over longer periods. Again, good cycling trousers/shorts are a big factor here and should be worn when testing saddles (and road-cycling in general).

Central Cut-Out

Improves ventilation and relieves pressure on soft tissues.

• With Cut-Out: Reduces numbness and improves airflow.
  
• Without Cut-Out: Preferred by those who want continuous support.
  

Practical Tip: Saddles often come with gender-specific designs and a cut-out or profile that is designed for your body parts can be great if experiencing numbness.

Saddle Profile

We are getting into the nitty-gritty of saddle design here. Most saddles are flat from the side (with or without a curve at the back), but ergonomic "waved" saddles that curve around the bum and thighs are available for better pressure distribution and improved power. These can be expensive and consulting an expert or bike-fitter would be recommended before purchasing, to ensure you get the correct curves for you.

For flat saddles, there are differences in shape from the top (eg. pear or T), as well as curvature, which is the profile looking at the saddle from behind.

• Round: More support, good for upright positions.
  
• Semi-Round: Balanced for endurance and climbing.
  
• Flat: Allows more movement, ideal for aggressive riding.
  

Practical Tip: Profile and curvature choice is personal, as with all saddle choices, and you should think about your personal aims and issues when looking at saddles.

Continue reading with Handlebars Set-Up