Handlebar Set-Up

Whereas the saddle is paramount for leg power, handlebar set-up affects comfort, aerodynamics, and handling. Setting up the handlebars correctly is often overlooked or rushed, yet it plays a crucial role in an effective bike fit. Small adjustments can prevent discomfort, improve control, and optimise performance.

Making small, precise adjustments to height, tilt, alignment, and brake reach can reduce strain, improve handling, and enhance your overall ride experience. Always test-ride after changes and use correct torque settings when tightening bolts to prevent damage—especially on carbon components! 

a. Stem Height

The height of the stem dictates the handlebar height and impacts your riding posture. A higher position promotes a more upright and comfortable ride, while a lower position improves aerodynamics and efficiency, often preferred for aggressive style. The key is to find a balance between comfort and performance.

How to Adjust

Road-bikes come with different sized spacers on steerer tube above and below stem. You move these spacers around to alter the height of the stem and handlebars.

1. Mark (or measure and record) the starting height as reference.
2. Loosen the stem pinch bolts (normally with an Allen key or T30 torque key)
   • This will allow the stem & handlebars to move independently of the steerer tube, fork, and front wheel.
3. Undo the preload bolt at the top of the steerer tube (it should not be very tight) whilst holding the fork and remove the top cap.
   • Careful: With the pre-load bolt undone, the fork is free to drop!
   • The preload bolt and top cap compress the steerer tube and pre-load the bearings with correct pressure to allow smooth steering.
4. Measure the recess gap which is between the top of the highest spacer (or stem) and the top of the steerer tube.
   • Usually around 3mm.
   • This gap is essential for the recess of the top cap and allows the pre-load bolt to correctly compress the steering bearings.
5. Rearrange the spacers around the stem as desired.
   • Usually, there is around 30mm total of different spacers (e.g., 2×5mm and 2×10mm) on the steerer tube of a new bike.
   • The stem and spacers should sit the same gap above the top of the steerer tube as measured previously.
6. Replace the pre-load cap and bolt, tightening the bolt so that it pinches but does not over-compress the steerer tube—usually only around 1.5Nm.
7. Check that the handlebars are aligned correctly (see section c for details) and tighten the stem pinch bolts to the correct torque.
   • It is important to do this correctly with a torque wrench, especially on carbon stems or carbon forks.
   • The correct torque for stem pinch bolts is normally marked on the stem.
8. Test the new height on several rides and adjust as required.

Optionally, some cyclists who want best aerodynamics and are not worried about re-selling or re-adjusting the bike, cut the steerer tube to match desired stem height. To do this correctly, it is best to do lots of prep and get some specific tools. Although there are many how-to-videos online, we would recommend going to a bike shop for it, or at the very least, invest in carbon specific blade for carbon forks. 

Note: It is recommended to keep a 5mm spacer above stem, rather than cutting to make it flush between stem and top-cap. This lowers the risk of mucking up your steering and gives the option for future adjustments. It also provides longer-lasting (and better) top-cap compression. Having a small spacer above stem is particularly important for carbon forks, as incorrect compression can delaminate or deform the steerer tube over time. Having a small tube protrusion above the stem is definitely worth the longevity benefits in our opinion!

Determining Handlebar Height

• Know Your Drop: Many road-cyclists keep track and compare the height difference between top of saddle and top of handlebars (measured with a long spirit level and tape-measure). This ratio can then be transferred with knowledge to other bikes or re-created on same bike if saddle height is adjusted after performance gains. For endurance or comfort style, this should be a smaller drop, while aggressive style should have a larger drop.
  
• Creep Down: Start with your handlebar high and test the feel with hands in different positions. Adjust position down in 5mm steps and test each time, keeping shoulders in a natural position (not over/under extended and with chest is good position for breathing). When you have gone too far, you normally feel resistance in lower back and hips whilst pedalling. Return handlebars then to higher position.
  
• Flipping the Stem: Some stems have a built-in angle (e.g., ±6°) and flipping will change the geometry and raise the handlebars. This can be done in extreme cases where frame size is very incorrect.
  
• Adjustable Stems: Some stems have a joint where you can set the angle of the stem and move the handlebars up or down in an arch (rather than inline with head tube). They are not common on road-bikes but can be retrofitted if reach is very wrong.
  

Practical Tip:  Always test-ride on different elevations before committing to a final position.

b. Stem Length

Along with handlebar height, the length of the stem is a key factor in determining reach and overall riding posture. It affects how stretched out or compact your riding position feels and is one of the easiest ways to fine-tune reach without changing the entire bike frame.

Note: If using a one-piece integrated handlebar and stem you should still consider stem length as it varies.

Understanding Reach

Reach is the horizontal distance between the saddle and the handlebars. It is a combination of the frame's top-tube length, stem length, handlebar shape, and height. A longer stem increases reach, promoting a more stretched-out and aerodynamic position, for more aerodynamic styles, while a shorter stem creates a more upright and comfortable posture, for more upright styles.

How to Replace a Stem

• Loosen the stem pinch bolts and preload bolt at the top of the steerer tube.
  
• Remove the top cap and slide the stem off the steerer tube.
  
• Install the new stem, making sure to rearrange any spacers to maintain the correct height.
  
• Align the handlebars with the front wheel and check tilt before tightening the bolts to the correct torque.

How to Choose Stem Length

A shorter stem can compensate for a frame that feels too long, while a longer stem can help stretch out a compact frame without changing the seat position.

• Short Stems (70–90mm): Good for endurance or gravel styles offering more responsive steering and more relaxed body position.
  
• Medium Stems (100–110mm): A balanced option for most road cyclists, combining comfort and efficiency.
  
• Long Stems (120–140mm): Preferred by taller cyclists or those aiming for maximum aerodynamics and aggressive fit.

Practical Tip: Use an online calculator to look at your body measurements and bike geometry to help you find the best stem length.

c. Handlebar Tilt

For road-bikes with a serperate stem and handlebars (i.e. a not integrated 1-piece), the handlebar tilt can be adjusted to influence wrist comfort, braking access, and overall control. A poor tilt angle can lead to wrist strain, hand numbness, or difficulties with shifting and braking.

Note: new bikes often come with handlebars at undetermined tilt from the manufacturers. It is recommended to always adjust in neutral position (with end of handlebars parallel to floor before riding a bike for first time!)

How to Adjust

1. Loosen the faceplate bolts on the stem (at from of bike)
2. Twist the handlebars around by 1- 2° to adjust tilt so that the drop of the handlebars and levers rotate to be closer or further from rider.
3. Measure to check the stem is in the middle of the handlebars.
4. Retighten the faceplate bolts evenly to the correct torque (stated on handlebars, and usually 4-6Nm).

Determining Handlebar Tilt

• Start in a Neutral Position: The tops of the handlebars should be parallel to the ground. It is recommended to mark this position for reference.
  
• Fine-Tune the Angle: Slightly rotate the bars upward or downward to align with your natural wrist position with small adjustments (1-2° at a time)
  
  • Upward Tilt: Can improve comfort but avoid excessive wrist bending.
    
  • Downward Tilt: Helps aerodynamics but may increase wrist straining.

Practical Tip: After adjusting tilt you should also look at your hood positions

d. Hood Position

The brake hoods should provide a natural resting place for your hands without forcing your wrists into an uncomfortable angle. Their position influences comfort, shifting access, and overall riding posture. Hoods that are too high or low can cause strain in wrists and forearms, especially on long rides.

Note: Again, the hood position is not always set correctly on new bike and should be visually inspected to make sure even on both sides and appropriate.

How to Adjust Hood Position

1. Peel back or remove the handlebar grip-tape from the brake hood area to access the clamp bolts.
2. Loosen the clamp bolts underneath the rubber brake hoods (usually with a 4mm or 5mm Allen key).
3. Rotate the hoods to adjust tilt or angle to the desired position.
4. Retighten the clamp bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specification (usually 4–6Nm).
5. Reapply or replace the handlebar grip-tape, using electrical tape as needed to make neat.

Determining Hood Position

• Neutral Position: Top of hoods is in line with the top of the handlebars. This creates a natural hand position with minimal wrist strain.
  
• Tilt Adjustment: Slightly tilting the hoods (1–2°) can improve wrist comfort or body position but excessive tilts should be avoided, which can cause numbness or strain in the wrists.
  
  • <Upwards tilt can improve wrist comfort for endurance style.
  • Downwards tilt can enhance aerodynamics for aggressive style.
• Inward Angle: Traditionally the hoods are straight (parallel with the top-tube), but some road-cyclists prefer to flare the hoods slightly inward (5–10°) to create a more natural hand position that reduces strain on the shoulders.
  • Straight hoods provide a more traditional fit and elbow position.
    
  • Flared hoods can improve comfort with aggressive style, especially for longer rides, or for cyclists with a handlebar width that doesn't match their shoulder width.

Practical Tip: Take time to get hood position correct for you, especially if doing long climbs..

e. Handlebar Alignment

A properly aligned handlebar has its handlebars perpendicular to the front wheel to make sure you are going straight when you expect to. By checking the alignment and adjusting as needed, you ensure your bike tracks straight and that your weight is evenly distributed.

How to Adjust

1. Lift the front end of bike and spin the front wheel.
   
   • Check the wheel is straight in the fork without any distortions or bends.
   • These can effect steering and should be dealt with before handlebars.
2. With bike back on floor, loosen the stem pinch bolts (normally with an Allen key or T30 torque key)
   • This will allow the stem & handlebars to move independently of the steerer tube, fork, and front wheel.
3. Check that the handlebars are aligned to be perpendicular with front wheel and adjust as needed.
   • Easiest with front-wheel straight inline with top-tube.
4. Retighten the stem pinch bolts to the correct torque and test for no slippage.
   
   • It is important to do this correctly with a torque wrench, especially on carbon stems or carbon forks.
   • The correct torque for stem pinch bolts is normally marked on the stem.
     

Checking Handlebar Alignment

• Visual Check: Stand in front of the bike and check that the handlebars are perfectly aligned with the front wheel and level to the ground. Both brake levers should be positioned at the same angle and height for uniform grip and control.
  
• Measurement Check: Use a tape measure to check distance between brake levers and top of steerer tube, or handlebar ends and front of head-tube. Measurements from each side should be the same when front-wheel straight.
  
• Laser Check: Many laser measuring devices (including those on a modern electric jigsaw) have functionality to shine a laser perfectly perpendicular. You can rest such a device on front of handlebars (using a cloth to avoid scratches) and point laser onto top of front wheel to check alignment.
• Use Alignment Tool: Many bike-shops have specialist tools to check alignment. Some measure brake-levers to steerer tube, some use lasers, some measure angles. Some of these are inexpensive and good investments for cyclists who build or adjust many bikes.

Practical Tip: Double check alignment (and that the handlebars are in the middle of stem) after tightening - things can slip whilst tightening the faceplate.

f. Brake-Lever Reach

Brake-lever reach refers to how far your fingers must squeeze to engage the brakes. Having the right reach improves braking efficiency, especially for smaller hands or aggressive riding positions.

How to Adjust

1. Locate the Reach Adjuster: Most modern brake levers have a small screw or dial near the pivot point to adjust the reach.
   
2. Make Adjustments:
   
   • Smaller Reach: Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (for smaller hands).
   • Bigger Reach: Turn the adjuster clockwise (for larger hands)
     
3. Test the Position: Whilst sitting in a natural riding position, check that your index finger can comfortably pull the brake without overstretching.
   
4. Check Brake Functionality: After adjusting, ensure the brake engages properly without excessive lever movement. Also, verify that cable tension or hydraulic pressure is correct.

Mechanisms Differ

• You should refer to the manufacturer’s instructions (or google it) for details about your specific levers.
• Reach adjustment screws or dials are often near the brake lever pivot and often hidden underneath the rubber hoods.
• Some SRAM and Shimano models use a 2mm Allen key, while Campagnolo models may have a small recessed screw.

Practical Tip: If you climb frequently, bringing the levers closer to the bars can improve control when riding out of the saddle.

g. Handlebar Choice

Some of the most crucial factors of a handlebar are the width, drop shape and drop height. These are often decided when buying a bike, but handlebars can be (and often are) upgraded. We cover this in more detail in our Road-Bike Upgrades chapter, but here are some of the most important things to consider.

Handlebar Width

The width of your handlebars is important and often bikes come with inappropriate handlebar width. This can affect aerodynamics, stability, and overall comfort. Choosing the right width helps maintain a natural arm position and improves bike handling. Too narrow can cause restricted breathing, instability, and excessive pressure on wrists. Too wide can lead to increased wind resistance and discomfort in shoulders and upper back.

• Narrow (36–38cm) – Increases aerodynamics, ideal for racers and smaller riders.
  
• Medium (40–42cm) – A balanced choice for most road cyclists.
  
• Wide (44–46cm) – Enhances stability, great for endurance riders or taller cyclists.
  

Practical Tip: Match handlebar width to shoulder width for the best combination of comfort and control.

Drop Shape

Handlebar drop shape determines how comfortably you can reach the lower hand positions and affects aerodynamics. Different shapes suit different riding styles.

• Traditional (Round Drops) – Deep, long reach; preferred for aggressive style.
  
• Compact (Shallow Drops) – Shorter, more comfortable reach, good for endurance and climber styles.
  
• Anatomic (Flat-Top Drops) – Shaped to fit hand position better, reducing strain for comfort and gravel styles.
  
• Aero-Bars (Integrated/Two-Tier) -  Allow for flatter body positions for time-trial style.
  
• Flared Handlebars - Give more control for gravel style and sometimes more aerodynamic hand positions for aggressive style.

Practical Tip: You can customise and add extension (clip-on) aero-bars for more body and hand positions or flare brake levers (carefully) for more stability.

Drop Height

Like drop shape, the depth of drop impacts your riding posture (and the reach to the brake hoods). A deeper drop allows for a more aggressive position, while a shallower drop makes it easier to switch hand positions.

• Shallow Drop (125mm or less) – Easier access to drops, better for endurance styles.
  
• Mid Drop (125–135mm) – A balance between comfort and aerodynamics.
  
• Deep Drop (135mm or more) – More aggressive style.
  

Practical Tip: Often integrated with drop shape choice, drop height is a more measurable way to calculate your reach when looking at overall geometry.

Handlebar Material

The material of your handlebars influences weight, stiffness, and vibration absorption. Choosing the right material balances performance, durability, and comfort.

• Aluminum – Durable, affordable, slightly heavier, sturdier in crashes.
  
• Carbon Fiber – Lightweight, absorbs vibrations, enhances comfort, prone to damage in crashes.
  

Practical Tip: Carbon bars reduce road buzz but require careful torque settings - buy a torque wrench if you go carbon!

Bars & Stem or One-Piece

The choice between an integrated handlebar-stem setup or separate components affects adjustability, weight, and aerodynamics. Lots of the time, it’s a cost thing.

• One-Piece (Integrated Bars & Stem) – Lighter, more aerodynamic, but limits adjustability.
• Separate Bars & Stem – More adjustments and easier to swap components.
  

Practical Tip: If unsure, start with separate components for flexibility before committing to an integrated setup.

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