Chasing South: A Patagonia Bikepacking Adventure (Part 2)
by Julian Becher
Heading Further South: Two Options for Adventure
Welcome back to the journey through Patagonia! Last time, I shared how we made it to Puerto Yungay, where we faced two very different options for heading further south.
The first option was to cycle all the way to Villa O’Higgins and continue from there. This route involves crossing two lakes and navigating narrow trails—often requiring you to carry your bike through deep mud. The weather is highly unpredictable, and it’s never guaranteed that you’ll be able to cross the lakes on your intended day. Some travelers have even had to wait nearly a week due to strong winds. It’s a serious test of resilience, but for those seeking a real challenge, this stretch might just be the most rewarding part of cycling through Patagonia.
The second option is to take a two-day ferry south, weaving through remote fjords all the way to Puerto Natales. (Heads up: this ferry runs just once a week and must be booked months in advance.) While the journey can feel a little monotonous at times, the landscapes are stunning, and there’s a good chance you’ll spot dolphins and seals along the way. Plus, you get meals onboard—though the portions are on the small side! After so many days of cycling and camping, it’s a strange kind of break. The downside: no internet for the entire journey, and after a while, the fjord views do start to repeat.
My group split at this point. Some chose the more rugged route to Villa O’Higgins, while others (myself included) opted for the ferry. I had to be back in Germany for work and couldn’t risk delays, so I went with the option that runs in all weather (even if it might arrive a few hours late).
Cycling in Torres del Paine
When we arrived in Torres del Paine National Park, we used our bikes as a convenient way to get around—especially useful since the buses inside the park are infrequent. Our plan was to avoid the pricey campgrounds by staying at more affordable ones and biking to the trailheads for hikes. That plan worked… but it made for some very long days.
One day we cycled 35 km one way on dirt roads to reach a trailhead, hiked for 7 hours, and then cycled all the way back to our campground. Exhausting? Definitely. Worth it? Absolutely. Torres del Paine is easily one of the most breathtaking places we cycled through. The roads wind past dramatic peaks and glacial lakes, and riding through without the usual traffic gave the experience a special kind of peace.
Tip: enter the park via road Y-290 – highly recommended!
It rained a little on our first day, which kept the dust down from passing cars—but also meant we ended up muddier than ever before. Still, unforgettable. And don’t just visit Base Torres—the French Valley is also 100% worth it!
Not Cycling in Argentina
We chose not to cycle in Argentina. Instead, we took a bus—with our bikes—and it was super straightforward. You just pay $10–15 in cash to the driver and load your bike. We had bags for our dismantled bikes, but it looked like others managed without.
Why the bus? Well, cycling conditions in Argentina aren’t ideal. The roads lack cycling infrastructure, the winds are brutally strong, and the distances between towns are vast. The landscape, while dramatic in its own way, can feel bleak and repetitive. Sure, you can do it—especially if you’re prepared for two full days of fighting the wind across empty plains—but we just didn’t think it was worth it.
If you do find yourself on the Argentine side, though, Perito Moreno Glacier is a must-see (even if the entrance fee is steep), and Mount Fitz Roy is definitely worth a visit.
Tip: if you arrive early, you might be able to enter the national park for free!
The Final Leg: A Journey Back
After our time in Patagonia came to an end, we flew from El Calafate back to Santiago de Chile, then made our way home to Europe—tired, happy, and carrying some very dirty bikes.
This trip was unforgettable.
It pushed me, inspired me, and gave me memories I’ll keep forever.
Wouldn’t trade it for anything.
